Ethan's Ark

Voyages

Home Dunedin to Chesapeake Oct., 2008 Hampton to Florida Oct., 2009 Florida to St. Mary's County April, 2010 St. Mary's County to Florida Oct, 2013 Hudson to Bahamas and Back June, 2017 Contact Us

Trip
Hudson to Bahamas and Back 2017

This year was the year to go to the Bahamas. We have been trying to make this trip since movingto Florida,but circumstances, Health issues etc. have prevented making the trip. We started out from hudson on May 11, heading for the Bahamas. We sailed south from Hudson to Duneding, anchoring for the night and planning to get fuel in Clearwater in the morning. We accomplished this and headed south out of Clearwater pass. We stayed outside until longboat key pass, and decided to head in to the ICW so that we wouldbe inside to pick up a mooring in Sarasota. Following the chart, I went south of the inlet then turned NE looking for the channel. No markers! We had had a storm a few weeks earlier and it appeared that the markers had been destroyed. I noticed a line of bouys marking a channel on the north side of the cut and headed towards them. We briefly touched bottom then we were in the new channel. There is a bascule (draw) bridge across the cut, but the tide was going out so we had no problem getting through the bridge. This experience shows the value of the "Notice to Mariners" and I should have read the current notices, but I didn't. I will not attempt that cut again soon! Anyway, we are now inside and make the run to the moorings in Sarasota.

We stay in Sarasota for an extra day because we were both tired, and the weather was rough. We set out from Sarasota on May 13. I intended to go out of Big Sarasota Pass, but when we got close, there were breakers completely across the pass. Oops. Turned around and headed south on the inside. Made it to Pelican Bay at Cayo Costa park for a secure anchorage for the night. From Pelican Bay we took the inside passage to Ft. Meyers Beach. We stayed overnight on a mooring in Ft. Meyers Beach then headed out on May 15th to Marathon. The first part of the day was a beautiful ladies daysail, then thunderclouds were forming all around us. I reefed the main, took in the jib and set the staysail, and within an hour the storms hit. We were about 15 miles off Cape Romano and the seas built within minutes to about 4 to 6 feet. The wind was from the SE, which was dead on the nose for our course. I first headed South for about an hour, then since Mary was seasick and the prediction was for an east wind, I headed north east (the wind had already shifted) to get closer to the lee of the land. At the marker for the entrance to Everglades City, we were about three miles offshore, and the seas had subsided substantially. I then headed SE towards Marathon. After clearing the NW cape the seas picked up but were limited by the depth of the water and we sailed across Florida Bay without incident in 20 to 25 knots of wind. We picked up a mooring in Boot Key Harbor (Marathon) about 1100 hours on the 16th of May.

The wind blew from the east at about 20 to 25 knots for about the next five days so we stayed on the mooring until Sunday May 21. We left early in the morniing and travelled east in the Hawk Channel to Channel Five, just south of Lower Matacumbe Key. We went under the bridge and picked up the inside waterway and continued east. After Steamboat Channel, the chart lists five to six feet in the channel. I draft 4.5 feet, so I thought I would be fine; however, I was close enough to the bottom to make m very uneasy. The Theodore Robert was stirring up the marl in a significant way, and the depth finder often read less than 4.5 feet! Be careful here! We made it through and continued to our destination, Mangrove marina. We had called previously and had pushed hard to arrive prior to their close at 1700. We arrived at the marina and as we eased up to the slip, the boat stopped. We were aground. The dock assistant looked at us and shrugged. OK. So I was able to back off and plow through the mud enough to leave the marina. We were able to backtrack to the Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina. The Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina was open until 1800 and we just made it. A little expensive, but a safe haven after a long day.

We stayed an extra day at the Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina to get some groceries and to rest. on 24 May we got underway once again planning on docking in Miami. After a series of phone calls in the morning, we realized that there were few choices due to the upcoming Memorial Day weekend. After listening to the weather report, there was supposed to be 20 to 25 Knot winds for the next two days, so we holed up at Gilbert's Resort and Marina for two days.

It is now the 26th of May and we are way behind schedule, and we have not been having a lot of fun. We take off from Gilbert's and travel to Ft. Lauderdale, a long day, and tie up at Bahia Mar. We get underway the next day and make it to the New Cove Marina in Riviera Beach, Fl. We have been underway (or not) for two weeks and we have obligations at home in Hudson. We decide to go home, take care of business and head to the Bahamas within the next month. We are tired and, with just the two of us, it has been pretty tough. twenty, or even ten years ago, it would have been a lot easier.

On June 22nd we returned to West Palm Beach to prepare to go to the Bahamas. One big advantage of delaying our trip to the Bahamas, is that my step son Jefferson and his daughter Dorothy were now able to join us due to school being out for the summer. Mary and I prepped the boat on the 22nd and my step son arrived late in the evening on the 22nd. We loaded Jefferson's and Dorothy's gear and planned to get underway the next morning.

We were underway about 1030 on the 23rd of June. We fueled up at the Riviera Beach marina and headed out the Lake Worth inlet. There was a strong outgoing tide and with an east wind the inlet was very rough. it seemed like we were just going up and down without any forward progress. I upped the RPM to about 1600 and was able to make it through the inlet to the more gentle seas beyond. We fought our way south to Ft. Lauderdale and when trying to contact the 17th st. bridge in Ft. Lauderdale, I realized that my VHF radio was not working properly. This necessitated a two night stay in Ft. Lauderdale to hav the day to get to West Marine and buy a new VHF radio. I splurged and bought the Horizon model with AIS. I had been drooling over that radio for some time, but could not justify the purchase. With my radio going Kaput, why not?

On the morning of the 25th of June we headed out from Ft. Lauderdale headed towards West End, Grand Bahama Island. The Gulf Stream was running very close to the Florida coast at abput 3.5 knots. I adjusted course and arrived at the Old Bahama Bay Club in West End about 1800. Customs closes at 1700, so I had to wait until the next morning to go through customs. We stayed at the Old Bahama Bay Club for the next day and enjoyed the resort and bicycled into the town of West End. The town of West End was devastated by hurricane Matthew the year before and the roof was missing from every other building. We did find a place to have lunch, Ella's Take Out, and had a conch burger that was out of this world.

TR at West End West End Customs House View from the beach, Old Bahama Bay Club


Leaving West End on the 27th we headed to Great Sale Cay as a night stopover. Great Sale was as I remembered, desolate with lots of bugs. Oh, well. On the 28th we got underway and made Green Turtle Cay at about 1800. We didn't know it, but, apparently June 29th is the end of the regatta season which culminates in a big party on Fiddler Cay with free cheeseburgers. We were able to get a slip at the Leeward Yacht Club after much cajoling. (Note that the Leeward Yacht Club is a public marina, not a private yacht club). The marinas on Green Turtle Cay were full and a golf cart for getting around the island was not available for love nor money.

Barracuda, West End To Great Sale Dori and Jefferson Fishing Leaving Great Sale Cay

I had not been to the Bahamas for twenty years, and the Abacos certainly have changed. When I last went, GPS was in its infancy and only relatively intrepid boaters went to the Bahamas and usually in relatively large vessels. With the proliferation of GPS and much more powerful outboard engines, I found that the marinas were full of boats of 25 to 35 feet with large outboard engines and center consoles. This is great for the Bahamas economy, but it has certainly changed the atmosphere. The Bahamians are still very welcoming, but the Abacos are crowded during the summer months when school is out. Quite a change.

Lewward Yacht Club, Green Turtle Black 'sound, Green Turtle New Plymouth, Green Turtle
 

We stayed in Green Turtle for two nights, then set out for Marsh harbor to re-supply on June 30. On the way to Marsh Harbor we talked to another sailing vessel that was travelling through Don't Rock passage. I chose the more popular Whale Cay channel. After passing through we talked to the Sailboat that took Don't Rock passage, and he said that he never saw less than seven feet! We continued our journey and tied up at Harbor View marina in Marsh Harbor about 1600. We walked to the grocery but got a cab back. The cab ride was less than 2 miles and cost $15.00. I was a little surprised.

 
Through Whale Cay passage   "Flying Circus" entering Marsh Harbor
 

On July 1st we headed out from Marsh Harbor to Hope Town. We arrived in Hope Town about 1100 and tied up to a mooring. We went ashore and walked across the island to snorkle on the reef that is less than 100 Yards from shore. We wandered the streets of Hope Town and Visited Elbow Cay lighthouse. It was a quite enjoyable stay, but it would have been better if we could have rented a golf cart to visit more of the island. Once again, all carts reserved well in advance, and none available.

Hope Town Entrance Elbow Cay Lighthouse Elbow Cay Lighthouse Info
 

Scuffy Scuffy Info Hope Town Reef

ON July 2nd we left Hope Town and headed for Manjack Cay (formerly Nunjack Cay) and anchored between Crab Cay and Nunjack Cay. Jefferson and Dorothy went ashore and explored while Mary and I stayed aboard. An enjoyable night. On July 3rd we headed from Manjack Cay to Great Sale as that is the best stopping point on the way from Manjack Cay to West End. We planned on spending the next night and maybe another day at West End, but the Old Bahama Bay Club had no space available. We decided that we would continue past West End and do a night crossing to West Palm Beach. As we passed West End, not only was the marina full, but all of the small anchorages close to West End were jammed. We continued through the night of the fourth of July and made landfall at Lake Worth Inlet about 0630 on the fifth. After some confusion, we finally docked at the New Port Cove marina at about 0830. We called the small vessel arrival number for customs, and waited over an hour on hold, but when they finally got on the line they were very efficient and friendly. To clear customs, we had to present ourselves, in person, at the local customs office in Riviera Beach. This took about another hour, then we were officially home. I do not know why this was so difficult. I know that if you take a cruise, or fly into this country, it is a lot easier. It used to be, in a private vessel, that you would call the local customs office, give them your information, and that was the end of it! I guess that boaters just don't have the same lobbying power.

After clearing customs, we packed up and headed for home. The boat is still in West Palm Beach, and I am going to pick it up on the 20th of July to bring the boat home to Hudson!

 

Home Dunedin to Chesapeake Oct., 2008 Hampton to Florida Oct., 2009 Florida to St. Mary's County April, 2010 St. Mary's County to Florida Oct, 2014 Hudson to Bahamas and Back June, 2017 Contact Us